Arts and Crafts inspirations: a visit to Jesus College Chapel and the Painted Church

Earlier this month, a group of Riversiders continued our local history tours with a captivating visit to two remarkable Cambridge landmarks—Jesus College Chapel and All Saints’ Church, known to many as the Painted Church—expertly led by local tour guide, Yvonne.

At first glance, these two buildings may seem quite different: one part of a centuries-old college, the other a relatively new parish church. But they share a fascinating common thread: both interiors bear the influence of the Arts and Crafts movement and the broader Victorian gothic revival that swept through 19th century Britain.

Jesus College was founded in 1496 by Bishop Alcock of Ely. The chapel, however, is 350 years older as it was part of the Benedictine convent of St Mary and St Radegund. As such, it is the oldest in Cambridge and unique in that it was not originally designed as a college chapel.

While the chapel retains its medieval roots, it has been substantially altered over the years. In the 19th century, major restoration work was undertaken that celebrated a return to craftsmanship, rich decoration and medieval-inspired design. William Morris designed and directed the decoration of panelled ceilings in the nave and tower. Stained glass windows were also glazed by Morris and Co. from designs by Edward Burne-Jones and Ford Madox Brown. 

Meanwhile, across the road All Saints’ Church was built to replace the older All Saints’ Church (now All Saints Garden opposite St John’s), which had become too small for the parish’s population. Constructed on land donated by Jesus College and carefully designed to make the most of a relatively compact plot, architect George Frederick Bodley created a building that reflects his vision of a 14th century English gothic church.

One of Bodley’s most striking decisions was to paint the entire interior, which was undertaken by master decorator Frederick Leach of Cambridge and his firm of artists. Leach himself painted the ceiling, free of charge, while the walls were adorned by, among others, David Parr, whose own home on Gwydir Street (now a beloved local heritage site) is a vibrant example of domestic Arts and Crafts design. Almost every surface of the church is stencilled or hand-painted in greens, reds and golds with delicate flowers, foliage, fruits, birds and Christian symbols intertwined with Biblical texts. The stained glass here also includes work by Morris, Burne-Jones and Madox Brown.

After almost two hours of a fascinating insight into the Arts and Crafts movement, we felt we had earned some refreshments and headed for coffee and cake in Jesus College’s café—which turned out to be another wonderful local discovery, and one to which many of us may return.

For those who are interested, All Saints’ Church will host a special event on 20th May at 7.30 pm, screening "The Man Who Painted His House", a new short film celebrating David Parr’s legacy. See their website for details.