A walk through time: St Botolph’s Church and Queens’ College, Cambridge

On a bright September morning, our group of history-minded Riversiders set out to explore two more of Cambridge’s treasures: St Botolph’s Church and Queens’ College—places steeped in centuries of history, layered with stories of saints, scholars, monarchs and restorers.

Our first stop was St Botolph’s on Trumpington Street, which was built in the 14^th century just inside the city walls, by the long-since-demolished south gate. Medieval churches at the edges of towns were often dedicated to St Botolph, the patron saint of travellers; the same saint also gave their name to the market town of Boston, named after its church (aka Boston Stump) with its tall tower that served as a beacon for travellers and sailors.

St Botolph’s—one of thirteen churches in Cambridge’s city centre—is deeply connected to the story of Queens’ College. In 1446, Andrew Dokett, principal of St Bernard’s hostel and rector of St Botolph’s, obtained a charter from Henry VI to buy land and build what became Queens’ College. In 1448, with the support of Henry’s queen, Margaret of Anjou, the foundation stone was laid and Dokett became its President—and Queens' remains the only one to use that title among the Cambridge colleges.

The church itself bears layers of artistry and preservation. Much of the work was carried out by the same architects and artists as we saw on our previous tour (Jesus College chapel and All Saints church), particularly George Frederick Bodley, who oversaw a major restoration in the 19^th century, painting the chancel and ceiling. However, the church is also home to the only surviving medieval rood screen in Cambridge, spared from destruction in 1634.

Queens' College Old Court

Crossing into Queens’ College, we stepped into one of Cambridge’s most historically intact spaces. The college was originally dedicated to St Margaret and St Bernard, but its story is told through its royal patrons: Margaret of Anjou, Elizabeth Woodville and Anne Neville. Later, Elizabeth II also became patron—the only college she formally supported. Even the Queen Mother left her mark; as she often stayed there en route to Newmarket races, a handrail was added to the famous Mathematical Bridge for her safety.

Queens’ boasts the only Cambridge court to retain all four original medieval elements: a chapel, library, dining hall and accommodation, all built in brick, which was a first for the university. The tower and porters’ lodge still stand, now serving as the visitor entrance.

The old dining hall

The dining hall, like St Botolph’s, bears the hand of Bodley, who took down its flat ceiling to reveal its dramatic vaulting and used the wood to create four flying angels. The walls, hand-decorated by Frederick Leach & Co (with work connected to the Cambridge artist David Parr), glow with 19^th century craftsmanship. Three portraits dominate the hall: Elizabeth Woodville, Erasmus (who studied here for three years) and Thomas Smith, a mathematician and benefactor.

In 1460, Queens’ extended into its second court, directly on the River Cam—the first Cambridge building to meet the water’s edge; only Queens’ and St John’s straddle both sides of the river. Cloisters were added, giving the court a monastic feel.

The tour group in front of the Mathematical Bridge

Perhaps Queens’ most famous feature, the Mathematical Bridge spans the Cam with elegant tangent and radial trussing—straight wooden beams forming curves. First built by James Essex in the 18^th century, it has been rebuilt twice since. Myths abound: that it was constructed without bolts, that it was designed by Newton (who had already been dead sixty years) and that it was taken apart to be studied and couldn’t be reconstructed without fixings. All are false but make good tales for the guided punt tours!

Across the bridge is the Fisher Building from the 1930s, which reshaped the riverbank as its foundations were driven into the Cam; this is where the main porters’ lodge is now located. The Cripps Court, a gift from the Cripps Foundation (which made its fortune from door fittings and piano hinges), is a modern cloister built of Portland stone, now home to first-year students. Nearby, Lyon Court, named after the Queen Mother, hosts the gym, bar and meeting rooms.

Exploring further we encountered the 19^th century Friar’s Court and the controversial Erasmus Building—designed by Basil Spence in the 1950s and reflecting Le Corbusier’s modernist principles, it was the first modern building on the Cam.

Walnut Trees Court with the chapel on the left

Our final destination was Walnut Tree Court, once the site of a Carmelite monastery and now home to the college’s new chapel, another of Bodley’s neo-gothic works from the late 19th century. It is adorned with a rare 1440s triptych reredos (brought from Long Melford in Suffolk) and luminous stained glass by Kemp.

Queens’ is the professed favourite college of our tour guide and it’s not hard to see why. It’s well worth a visit and if anyone is inspired to do so, click here for more information: https://www.queens.cam.ac.uk/visiting-the-college/tourist-information/