The Great Fish & Chips Quest – Stop #1: The Free Press

Here’s a question for you: who serves the best fish and chips in Cambridge?

Four Riversiders are on a mission to find out, and we kicked off our journey with a visit to The Free Press, tucked away on Prospect Row.  Only a 12-minute walk from Cambridge Riverside, it’s already winning points for convenience.  The pub is run by Cambridge-born siblings Megan and Thomas Stepney, who describe The Free Press as ‘a traditional backstreet pub’.

We agree. This is a proper pub.  It’s got a strong line-up of beers on tap (familiar names and guest beers), a surprisingly good wine list (our choice was a very respectable viognier, sold by the glass) and the kind of atmosphere that makes you want to stay a while.  Inside, it’s cosy and charming (they have open fires in the winter) and full of character.

The walls are covered with photographs, pictures and news articles relating to the many students and locals who have visited over the years.  The bow of the Cambridge boat that was destroyed in the 1984 boat race hangs in the main bar.  Blissfully, there was no background music during lunch, which meant we could talk without shouting over a playlist.

Now, the food: three of us ordered traditional fish and chips, and one opted for ham, egg and chips, that other ‘safe’ choice when you want try out a new kitchen. The portions were big but not overwhelming. The fish was perfectly fried in a light, crispy batter and the skin-on chips were clearly homemade, as was the delicious tartare sauce and crushed (not mushy!) minty peas. The ham slices were thick and juicy, home-cooked in the kitchen behind the bar, and the eggs were cooked with a delicate crispy edge - no sad, soggy frying here.

The staff deserve their own shout-out: friendly, knowledgeable and unfazed by our late-in-the-day dessert request after the kitchen had already closed - they managed to rustle up a generous slice of orange polenta cake served with thick cream and even a rosemary sprig decoration.  That kind of service is rare and much appreciated.  A service charge wasn’t automatically added to the bill, another rarity these days.

A few practical notes: food is ordered at the bar and the kitchen shut at 2.00pm on the day we were there (a Thursday). It was quiet over the lunch period but we hear it gets busy, especially in the evenings, so book ahead. The loos? Serviceable, but don’t expect luxury.  If the sun’s shining, there are two terrace options - a courtyard at the back (no smoking), and a patio just by the entrance - perfect spots for a pint and a plate.

As for our search for the best fish and chips in Cambridge? We may look no further and a return visit beckons. But if you have any better suggestions, let us know in the comments. https://www.freepresscambridge.com/